Kathmandu

Pokhara airport is just funny. When I can actually post photos, I will. The single one I did post took about 30 minutes to upload. I've tried multiple times since then, but having both electricity and a solid Internet connection for that long is nigh on miraculous.

Pokhara Airport. The place is deserted. It really looks abandoned-- left somewhat recently, but abandoned all the same. Upon arrival at the Yeti Airlines counter (You may laugh now- yes- Yeti as in Abominable Snowman. This in contrast to Agni Air, which is the airline that I used from Kathmandu to Pokhara. Agni as in Fire. Who flies on Fire Airlines? Those who don't book with the Abominable Snowman.) I digress...

The Yeti counter. There is a handwritten sign-- if only I'd had the presence of mind to take a photo of it-- handwritten in English-ish is a note that due to fog in Kathmandu all flights are delayed for a a couple of hours. This delay was being either too long or not long enough, as sixteen lucky passengers, ended up on a Yeti Charter flight. Sitting down (having literally climbed in and squashed myself into a seat, backpack on lap as there is no stowage even under the seats) I take a look into the cockpit. I can actually reach forward and tap the pilot on the shoulder to see when we are leaving.

There is a fasten seatbelt sign that humors me; I have the feeling that if this baby actually takes off, in the event of an "emergency landing" the seatbelt won't be doing much to help me out. Likewise, there is the universal "no smoking" light. This has less to do with the dangers of second-hand cigarette smoke and more to do with the fact that if someone were to light a match or flick a bic, we'd all be goners since it would surely ignite the noxious, toxic gas fumes that fill the cabin. Our lovely Tibetan air hostess ducks through the cabin with a plate of cotton and hard candy.

The flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu is less than thirty minutes, but it was a very, very long thirty minutes. The nausea could have been from the rocking and hopping or due to inhaling the plane's exhaust. Either way, I was exceedingly happy to land.

***

Kathmandu has changed so much in ten years. There are literally hundreds of guest houses and shops, restaurants catering to tourists (right now lots of Aussies and Chinese), Internet cafes, money changing offices and more all packed into the same narrow, windy streets. It's a bit of a shock coming in from Pokhara, where things are a bit slower and quieter, relatively speaking. After making so many friends in Pokhara, it also feels a bit less friendly, and overwhelming. But as I begin to open up the Complaint Box in my mind, I recognize it's just me...wherever I go, there I am. And it's my decision how to have this experience. So keeping perspective, I bathed in HOT WATER and washed my hair. I've never felt so clean in all my life.

Driving here is ridiculous. With all the tooling around that I've done, I've not seen a single accident or pedestrian fatality. Amazing, miraculous, remarkable-- these are just a few words that begin to describe the phenomenon. There are basically no traffic signals, and when I say that, I am refering to signs, lights, turn signals, of any kind. So instead, everyone uses the horn: to pass, to turn, to let another motorist or pedestrian or cow know that you are there, to announce the fact that you are about to turn a corner or go round a bend, when traffic is too fast, too slow...you get the idea.

So we have masses of cars, buses, auto-rickshaws, cyclists, and pedestrians speeding through the streets with no lanes, no rules, and no common sense. The Nepali people must be used to it, because they step into the street and cross with hardly a glance, and don't bat an eyelash when they are nearly plowed down by someone merging from the far side of the road, across a roundabout, into oncoming traffic. It is, in fact, so completely out of control that I just don't really even watch. Perhaps because I am too petrified or maybe because it is so completely out of my hands that I may as well surrender to the moment.

Just a few more days, it's all going so fast...

Blessings!

Last Day in Pokhara

I’m sitting on the rooftop of the guest house, soaking in the last of the afternoon sun before it disappears behind the hills. It’s quite hazy, so the Himalaya have been in hiding since mid-morning, and there is something of a fog nestled into the trees below. I can see the north end of Phewa Tal (the lake here in Pokhara) and am happy to take in a slice of Nepali life. The smell of wood smoke and incense are always in the air, and my heart is full.

I love, admire and am fascinated by life here and I currently have a bird’s-eye view of it all. Women are doing laundry on surrounding rooftops, children are yelling and playing in the alleys. Men and women at home and in shops repeatedly perform the daily ritual of moving dirt and dust from one place to another with small hand-brooms made from straw.

Cows and water buffalo roam through the streets, as do some of the dogs; though it seems that since I was here last, there is a new phenomenon of dogs as "pets." Sometimes they are simply hanging around the home or shop where I assume they are fed, and other times, sadly, kept on very short chains. Snowy egrets who make their homes on the far side of the lake can regularly be seen against the lush green backdrop of palms, banana trees and some tree akin to our poinsettia.

Despite the peace and beauty, it’s never completely quiet here. There is the ubiquitous sound of honking cars, trucks and motorcycles, construction, as well as human voices living life in public. The sounds of many birds, barking dogs, and children yelling in the streets ceases only at night. The people here are early to bed and early to rise, so as the sun disappears, things will slowly wind down.

Up on the tallest hill on the far side of the lake I can see the stupa of the Peace Pagoda. This monastery and shrine were built recently, and we took a hike to see it up close earlier in the week. Monks from the major Buddhist traditions came together to build the beautiful structure, inset with figures of the Buddha and strewn with prayer flags. With no car traffic allowed, it’s an oasis of quiet. I stick to my initial theories about the Buddhists: when it comes to construction, they pick the BEST places!

As for me, I’ve fallen into traveler mode quite quickly, and let go of my Western standards of, well, most everything. Without judgment, there is so much spaciousness for the life here. Having said that, I have decided that four days is really as long as I can stand to wear one pair of socks. After that I am offending even myself. (a sense of humor is also an essential part of life!)

Blessings!

Happy New Year from Nepal!

Namaste from Nepal and Happy New Year!

It's been less than five days since I arrived, but somehow being a whole world away makes it seem so much longer. I got into Kathmandu on Sunday night after about 30 hours of travel and flew to Pokhara on Monday afternoon (where I am now).

Pokhara lies to the west of Kathmandu, in a valley of the Annapurna Range. This is the second largest Nepali town after Kathmandu, but still quite small. It's primarily a jumping-off point for trekkers and mountaineers headed into the Himalayas, rather than a destination unto itself. The town is situated around a beautiful lake and the streets are lined with guest houses, restaurants and shops offering Nepalese and Tibetan handicrafts. The people here (and throughout the country) are as beautiful as the scenery.

One reason for my visit to this particular place was to meet in person with the people from Nepal House, and this is how I spent my New Year's Day. Basantha, Shiva and Bima are the driving force behind this new, small non-profit organization that works with abused, neglected and traumatized children throughout the Pokhara valley. It's a HUGE and OVERWHELMING amount of work, and what they are doing is incredible.

The children they are helping have suffered at the hands of alcoholic parents, been physically and sexually abused in a culture that does not discuss such problems, have seen family members murdered, lived through landslides...any horror you can imagine for a child... and they are helping in a place where there are essentially no other resources available. They work with orphanages, schools, "social services" in the small way it exists in Nepal, and are slowly becoming known for the work they do.

There is a significant problem in this country with child trafficking (buying/abducting children and taking them to brothels in India) and they recently got involved with a case where two girls were rescued from such a situation.

Listening to their stories is heartbreaking and inspiring; you hear and see the best and the worst of humanity. They are truly pioneers in this country, as "whole child" integrated therapy does not exist here. It's incredibly exciting to hear about their work and the changes it is creating with the children; and learn about ways that we can help.

When I met with them today, I dropped off a big bag of medical supplies, and some soft toys. They expressed need for some items that I will purchase and send back from Kathmandu, and we are talking about some ideas for continuing to support their work. In February, we'll have a veg pot luck and slide show, and I'll share it all with you!!

Tomorrow we go to visit a local school and orphanage. And I will keep you posted as travels continue.

Much, much love and many blessings in 2009!

I loves me a good sale..

If you're in the mood for some pre-holiday self-indulgence, Be Present yoga clothing just put a good bit on sale. 

Happy Shopping (click here)

Love,

Carrington

RHYTHMIC FLOW ROCKS THE BLUE AGAIN!

In case you have not heard the rumble left from the drumming that rocked the blue this past weekend, let me tell you what a FABulous time we all had! Moving to the live drumming and your own inner rhythm is the most liberating feeling and expression that I know.

I sure hope the rest of you who attended had as much fun as I did.

Thanks Kristin and the Kunga drummers for an amazing weekend of liberation!

Love,

-yvonne :)

Be Still My Beating Heart...

Kristin and her beloved Kunga drummers graced the Blue with their presence this weekend. Personally, the journey I took with them was MUCH needed. The Earth Practice on Saturday really helped to ground me after a whirlwind election week. And Sunday's Air practice provided me with the space and energy to let it all GO! From the fantastic asana to the incredible adjustments and without a doubt brilliant drummers, the whole experience left me, well... whole.

Next time... be there or be square!

Love, Carrington

More tunes

So many of you have asked, and here it is! Saturday's Playlist!

Love,

Yvonne